Skåne - day 3

Why did they have to steal an hour time exactly this night? Bad timing. Our last day in Skåne.

The following visits on the agenda: Helsingborg, Kullaberg and Arx & Nimis. We drive to Helsinborg, not knowing exactly what to expect. When we arrive, Helsinborg seems to be a pretty city. At the sea, with an old centre and a castle that gives us a nice overview on the surroundings.

We get in the car and leave to Kullaberg, another nature reserve in West Sweden. We decide to take the small roads instead of the highway. The road passes several enjoyable villages and gives us often a magnificent view on the sea.

We have to park the car and continue on foot. We arrive at a light house, on the top of a small peninsula, surrounded by sea. The perfect place to hang around for an hour, and take pictures of course :-).

Now we head to Arx & Nimis. A bit of a strange story. A Swedish artist collected wood at the sea during several years, and knocked this together in a weird construction. The Swedish state did not allow him to build this, so he declared independence for Ladonia, the nearly inaccessible 1 km² country that surrounds the sculptures. Never recognized by Sweden of course. You must be really crazy to build this. Before we start our walk, we take a fast picknick in the pleasant sun.

It is very difficult to find Ladonia: no road signs, not mentioned in the tourist guide, ... We needed instructions from local inhabitants to reach the place. But it was worth the effort. The wooden construction on the rocks, in a small bay, forms a fascinating scene.

After this unique visit, we continue to Angelholm, where we have dinner. Food is very welcome and I enjoy the meal every bit. Our tourist trip is over :-(. Destination Göteborg by highway. I really liked this trip. Nice company and a beautiful region, perfect.

Skåne day 2

If I want to have a really good and healthy breakfast, I have to travel. My Austrian friends are taking good care of me. Mama can rest easy: I am in good hands. Now I have a lot of energy. Ready to go. Destination Lund, this time in daylight.

Lund is a real student city. You can feel the atmosphere. The old city centre is beautiful, Danish style.

Apparently, there is something big going on. A lot of people here. And we didn't announce our visit. It must be something else. A world celebration of the Lutheran church for example. People from all over the world are gathered in the city centre. We enter the domkyrkan (kathedral) where we can find an astronomical clock. The weather is amazing. Sun everywhere (not the brand but the yellow fire ball on the sky). And less wind than yesterday. It feels like summer. The hottest March in Sweden since the 18th century, you can say we are a little lucky.

Next destinations is Malmö. The main city in Skåne. Malmö is surprisingly beautiful. Especially the new city at the sea is very pleasant. Relaxing near the water, enjoying the Swedish sun, what could you want more?

Maybe a nice building such as the Twisted Torso?

As the darkness is falling, we decide to move a bit closer to the Öresund bridge. It must be nice to see the bridge against the red colored sky ... And it really is.

Definitely worth a visit.

Our trip to Skåne - day 1

- Do you speak english?

- Nej. Geofehfogh. Depfhembolf fheofgow?

All of a sudden, without any warning, I needed Swedish. I have to say it would have been easy if I had known this before I dialed the number. Anyway, I tried to speak swedishish and (this is the suprising part) managed to book a room for two nights. If you want to experience the need for swedish, just dial +46 40-41 41 94. A kind old man will be happy to hear from you.

After I booked accomodation for två nights and fem persons, everything is ready for launch. Saturday morning, I pack my bags (a light and sugarfree version of my kiruna bags) and leave to Helmutsrogatan, where the taxi is waiting. Walter is our taxi driver, and he's also going to Malmö, what is kind of convenient. Thanks Walter :-).

First stop is Morups Tånge, a nature reserve at the westcoast of Sweden, south of Göteborg. A really nice place to walk. And sit, or lie down. Sea, birds, swamps (no ogres), grass, and nature of course.

Second stop, after a nice drive along the coastline, is Danska fall. A 36 meter high waterfall in a forest with threes. After 1,2 km walking, we find the waterfall. Nice of course. But maybe not so spectacular as I expected. 36 meter long, I think. Since we are adventure-minded and only a bit afraid of the big bad wolf, we leave the marked track and go off road, straight into the wilderness of Skåne. We were lost. Pathfinder Jan searched for the perfect road out, without success. After we analyzed the star constellations and the exact position of the sun, we unanimously decided to return the same way, through the Swedish wilderness, passing the aggressive ant again.

Where to go now? Let's go straight to Lomma camping. Two hours later, we arrive at the camping site. After a short non-verbal conversation, we find our new home. Cottage 14, Middle of Nowhere, Sweden. It looks nice and cosy. And very cheap. Luckily for us, the middle of nowhere is a really beautiful place. At a lake, near the sea. Very nice views.

And a beautiful sunset ...

The end.

Monday the 12th of March

Time to get up. (Too early again) Our bus to the Ice Hotel leaves at 9 o'clock. Just in time. Bright sun again. Wiiii. (Expression of happiness) 100 Kronor later, we enter the main door of the Ice Hotel. A marvellous place.

Walter and I want to order an apelsin juice, shaken not stirred. No one at the ice bar. What a disappointment.

Luckily, the Ice Hotel has something else to offer besides apelsin juice. Very nice (and very expensive) rooms till exempel. Two perfect models and an Ice Hotel. The perfect photoshoot. Only 25000 euro for a scoop.

Now we really have to leave. Some time left to find lunch (no Rudolf this time). It was not that difficult to find a nice café in Kiruna. There is probably only one. Another choice problem avoided. After a tasty lunch and a kanelbulle, we start our walk to the train station. Farewell Kiruna.

Lappish smell and Philip's rescue plan

Sunday 11th of March


We all survived the night. A bit tired though. Breakfast is ready. Time to go to the kitchen. Bread, cheese and home made tea: I had worse. It is so great to be outside this morning. Bright blue sky, no wind at all. Maybe a bit cold: -12 °C. Perfect weather for Lappland.

This morning, we have plenty of time to enjoy the camp site. Let's go ice fishing. Great. We will eat Lappish fish for lunch. After we arrived at the lake, one of our guides makes a hole through the ice. The ice must be nearly 1 meter thick. Now it's our turn. Holding the fishing line is one thing, being patient is quite something else and the most problematic part.



A series of photoshoots later, we are beaten by the fish on patience. At least we tried. No fish called Wanda for lunch. Poor Rudolf again. Time to do something that demands less patience. Langlaufen. Perfect idea. The journey starts. Amazed by the beautiful nature, we continue along the riverside. Now the sun is warmed up and working hard, the temperature is rising to zero degrees. Unbelievable to be sweating in Lappland. Halfway we turn around and go back to the camp site where lunch is being prepared. I was right. Reindeer again. No problem for me, I liked it.


After lunch, we have to clear the Lappish hut for the next group. Still enough time to walk to the river and relax in the sun. I will miss this. Ok, half past three. Time to leave. The dogs and snowscooters are waiting at the starting point of the return trip. Hard to believe, but the return is even better. The same track in the blazing sun looks fantastic.



Two hours later, the two day tour is totally and completely finished. A taxi drives us rollercoaster-wise to Gullriset. Now the penetrating smell of reindeer (sorry Rudolf, it has to be said) and dogs is getting unbearable. A fierce battle starts to decide who can take a shower first. Not suitable for children's eyes. No pictures either. Well, this may not be exactly what happened, but certainly more spicy for my story. To avoid cold turkey because of a sudden lack of awful Lappish smell, Philip tries to save some in a plastic bag. Wonderful idea. If only we wouldn't have forgotten it in Gullriset. Warning to the visitors of Gullriset: do not open the bag unless you have suicidal tendencies.

Our last night in Kiruna. Zap. That was it. Too short.

From Rudolf to the Northern Lights

Thanks Rudolf.

New energy to enjoy the Lappish nature. Two important tasks are awaiting us: heating up the sauna and making fire for the barbecue. After we finished this exhausting work, we go back inside and have a cup of coffee. A bit later, Lappish chicken (similar to ours, but a little colder) is ready for the barbecue. It would have been convenient if I could say the same about the fire. A lot of fire and no heat. I don't want to pretend being a barbecue expert, but this seems at least not ideal to me. A few Canadians who happen to stay at the same camp site seem pretty desperate. Burn baby burn, I hear them thinking. Result: wood and chicken on fire. Terrific. After we realize we could as well grill our chicken with Philip's lighter, we decide to move to our Lappish hut, where we can easily grill the meat in our stove. A tasty meal after all.

It is pretty dark outside. The only light we can find in the camp is coming from the few candles that are strategically placed outside the huts. Look! Greenish sky. Hm. Not normal. This could be northern light. We leave the camp to get rid of the disturbing candle light and go to the frozen lake, that provides us with a beautiful panorama on the sky. The greenish light is changing continuously. The light grows stronger and stronger and starts dancing on the sky. This is certainly northern light. A strange spectacle. Several attempts to make a picture of the light lead to nothing, but some produce a bit of an idea how it was, such as this one.

Meat Rudolf

After an interesting trip north of Kiruna, we arrive at the camp site that will host us this night. In the middle of the Lappish nature, we discover some wooden huts. No iglo this night :-(. A semi-authentic Lappish hut will be ours for the coming day. Everything seems perfect. It is however better not to look under the table, which must be one of the most authentic Lappish places in whole Sweden. In some time, this could become of enormous importance to archaeology.

No central heating, no light, no home cinema system, ... Back to basics. We have to heat up the stove ourselves. Drilling for oil or gaz seems not the best idea since it could take too much time. Wood it shall be. I first thought we could light a tree, cigarette-wise. This should keep us warm for some time. Unfortunately, our room and the accompanying stove are too small. We really have to chop some wood. With a portion of girl-power, we can replenish our wood stock. (look what a nice job we have done in the first picture)

Graw grawl groo. (stomachish for "I need food, and soon") What a coincidence: lunch is served. Lappish lunch to be correct. Reindeer. Smells nice. Better than alive. Poor Rudolf.

The real stuff

Saturday the 10th of March

This is the day. Today we start our two-day guided tour in Lappland. At 9 o'clock (véry early), our guide, Henrik Taube, arrives at our hostel and picks us up in his huge Dodge van. Half an hour later, we arrive at the start of the tour. Time to take some really warm clothes (although we didn't need them that much). Enormous trousers and even more enormous boots. Perfect. After we got a long speech with instructions, it is time to prepare the dog sledges. The dogs are waiting in a trailer and are very anxious to run. Dog after dog is fixed to the sledges. Time to go. The dogs start howling and are difficult to restrain.

The guide gives the long-awaited green light. Go! The dogs start very enthousiastic. At a considerable speed we are pulled in the Lappish landscape. The sensation is unbelievable. The vastness of the Lappish snow plains, the excitement of the dog sledge, an unforgettable moment.

Halfway to the camp site, we change to the snow scooters. Another fantastic experience.

The promised land

Abba abba,

once arrived in Kiruna, the quest for our hostel can start. I remember something about a "Lägenhetshotell", which in fact just means apartment hotel. No phone number, no address. Perfect preparation. Luckily in the train station I can find a leaflet about the Kiruna Lägenhetshotell Rumservice. Aha, Lägenhetshotell, that's the one we need. A nice walk away from the station, we reach the promised land. No one home, reception closed. Strange. Ring the doorbell , strange people coming out. Hm. Maybe this is not the one we need. Gullriset. Could this be our hostel? I suddenly remember Gullriset. Great. After we asked some Swedes, we start our walk to Gullriset Lägenhetshotell. Of course at the other side of the city. A bit tired, we reach our room. A nice two-room apartment with kitchen, at a very low price. Perfect for us, poor students. A real shower: what a glorious feeling. After we prepared a nice meal, we go into the city center. Kiruna is an industrial city and not the most beautiful one I've ever seen, but still worth a walk. The snow and lit up ice sculptures create a nice atmosphere and the perfect place for some pictures.

The train: always a bit of travelling, in this case a lot

Allo allo,


the train is moving. Given the fact that this is one of the main functions of a train, you could imagine something more surprising. No way back, we are going to Kiruna. 17 o'clock. Almost 1800 kilometer to go. The time is going surprisingly fast. In fact, I'm quite enjoying the train trip. Nice friends, a huge amount of chocolate and sweets, and funny games. What would you desire more? Once in a while, the sun gives us an exciting view on the Swedish landscape.




When darkness has fallen, we attack our home made sandwiches with ruccola. Mmm. A nice fruit dessert and some chocolates later, tiredness is entering our sleeping compartment. Time to make the beds. The rythm of the train sent me to sleep after a while.


A short night later, time to eat again. Around 12 o'clock we have to change trains in Boden. No longer a night train. Many thanks to the ticket clerk who booked our seats. We got a very nice seperate and spacious compartment. Much nicer than the ordinary seats.

The perfect place to start a new game. Each with a cigaret paper on our forehead with a mysterious word, the guessing starts. Alf and the nuclear power plant. How are you supposed to guess such thing? Anyway, it was quite entertaining and the end of our train trip was approaching and even getting closer and closer. When the ticket collector suddenly announces Kiruna station, we prepare our luggage to get off the train. A cautious open-the-window-and-put-your-hand-out experiment is reassuring: no frozen fingers. Great.

Leaving to Kiruna: food, food and even more food

Hej again,


this evening departure to Kiruna. Wiiii. We are going with 6, 5 nice people. I am so lucky. A train trip of almost 24 hours must be really exhausting. What to do this whole time? Food. Definitely. A lot of food. I will need tonnes of junk food during this trip. To make sure we also have the necessary vitamines and other healthy stuff, we decide to have proper lunch together. I am making spaghetti sauce. Question is how far this qualifies for a proper healthy lunch. Let's assume it does. Luckily Johanna, an Austrian girl, is so kind to bake chocolate muffins. Njammies. We will not starve to death, that's sure. Time is flying while you're eating. What would we do if we wouldn't have to eat? I don't want to know. So as I said, time was flying. Flying too fast in this case. We still have to do something really important. Guess what: preparing food for the train. One hour to go before our train leaves. We still have to go shopping, to prepare our food and to take the tram to the station. Pre-departure stress all over the place. Hurry hurry hurry. Speeding through the shop (the big Willy:s if you want to know) ...

Once home again, a well organised and semi-automatic conveyer band is put into action. I have the challenging task of packing the finished sandwiches. In the meantime, ruccola is flying everywhere. 9 minutes 25 seconds and 24 sandwiches later, we close the door and leave to the tram station (ruccola still all over the place). No Murphy's law this time: the tram is coming the moment we arrive at the Almedal stop. Nice tram. 15 minutes later we arrive in the train station of Göteborg. Jan is already there and takes us to the right platform. I am so lucky to have experts around me the whole time. Some moments later we find our place on the night train. My new home for the coming day. A bit small, but cosy and with a view. I am sure I will enjoy this trip.

My adventure in Lappland: clothes, clothes and even more clothes

Hej hej,


some days before the great leap northwards (you must be crazy to travel nearly 1800 kilometers or almost 24 hours by train one way), I am a bit nervous. After all, I have never been in Lappland before. North of the polar circle, it could be a little cold. Luckily I have a friendly neighbour who was so kind to lend this poor and badly equiped north pole visitor the necessary clothes. How many clothes to take? No idea. Let's test it. Some time later (matching six layers of clothing is a demanding task), I seem to have doubled volume. One thing is sure: this is the first time in my life I wear my whole garderobe at once. Hopefully the last time as well. It is quite warm for sure. But -30 °C? Although I even considered emptying the freezer, I decide to take the risk and go for it. The last and delicate task to squeeze all in my backpack is finished now. You would swear I leave for several weeks. Last check of the weather forecast is reassuring: a real heat wave in Kiruna. Nice.